WHAT'S ON THE BEER LIST

Richard Ehrlich's selection

There is a time-honoured formula for matching Indian food with drink: anything will do as long as it's lager. Many people disagree, saying that well-chosen wines will complement the varied flavours of Indian cuisine. Several modern-style Indian restaurants have assembled intelligent lists, but Soho Spice's wine list is short and mediocre. I would stick with beer, but that list too is pretty perfunctory and dominated by big brands. Could try harder.

Kingfisher Premium Lager Beer, pounds 2.70 per 33cl bottle

A decent, refreshing lager with some good malty flavour. No better suited to Indian food than other decent beers, despite its pedigree

Cobra Premium Lager Beer, pounds 4.95 per 65cl bottle

India's other lager, in a bottle big enough to share so the fizz doesn't dissipate while you're eating

Heineken Export, pounds 2.95 per 33cl bottle

The old reliable - never anyone's favourite but a good beer for spicy food